Now that South Africa has emerged from the shroud of apartheid, its dramatic coastline, world-class accommodations, and models of conservation can stand out in the light. We begin our journey in Cape Town, the cosmopolitan hub at the tip of the continent. In the shadow of the dramatic Table Mountain, discover the original Victorian touches and the modern additions that make the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront a destination all itself. Your room at the Cape Grace will provide the perfect view of this beautiful harbor; but its world-class interior may tempt you to stay inside. The French-inspired Cape Grace was crowned no less than the world's number one hotel by Conde Nast Traveler's 2000 Readers' Choice Awards. It received top marks in location, rooms, and service, scoring the highest rating ever in the poll. What better base for your forays into this amazing part of the world. Spend a morning at Robben Island, the harsh prison home of Nelson Mandela, now a tribute to the anti-apartheid activity spawned there; feel the freedom of the seas whale-watching where the Indian and Pacific oceans collide. Head to the top of Table Mountain or its partner, Lions Head. And then we head to Zululand, and one of Africa's conservation triumphs. Phinda, which literally means "the return," didn't even exist a decade ago. But thank goodness the local Zulu realized that seven ecosystems with adjacency to the Indian Ocean was a land that should be preserved, and they created an ecotourism gem. And so it is: a community that literally constructed lodges with the love of the land in their hearts, where clinics and classrooms benefit from your visit, where necessary bush clearing provides jobs and charcoal for the community, where environmental education is a priority for guests and locals. Breeding herds of elephants and lion prides were reintroduced; the number of cheetahs have more than doubled in a decade. Mountain and Rock, Forest and Vlei Lodges were hand-built, and built with careful consideration of your stay. Forest Lodge is our home here, complete with air-conditioned glass chalets on stilts; the torchwood trees of this rare sand forest seem to be in your room, and the forest creatures—the tiny red duiker, suni antelope, narina trogon and rare red squirrel—are right outside. The dining, lounge, viewing deck, and shaded pool areas of this intimate and secluded camp overlook a tranquil grassy vlei. There is also a forest "boma" (reeded enclosure) where memorable evenings are spent dining under the stars. It's a different Africa than the normal rough-and-tumble safari, with sophisticated touches, a rare sand forest at arm's length, even from bedside, and comfort all along the way.