DAY 1 | THE STARS OF ANCHORAGE

Anchorage is not called the �star of the north� for nothing. To the east lies the Chugach Mountains, to the west are the silver waters of Cook Inlet. Fly into Anchorage; you'll be met and transported to your downtown hotel to unwind. The remainder of the day is open for shopping and exploring. No longer the small frontier town, Anchorage has the bustle of any major metropolis. Art galleries, shops, restaurants dot the cityscape. Meet the rest of the group for dinner and a briefing for your journey. Your guides will get you in Alaska travel mode, with packing and safety tips to make this the best of all trips.

DAY 2 | KENAI NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE: CANOEING

Start early this morning with a hundred-mile drive to Kenai National Wildlife Refuge. The drive rivals the destination in scenic drama; the guides will stop several times along the way to take advantage of the vistas. The Seward Highway winds through the Chugach Mountains along the coast, then through two mountain passes to the head waters of the Kenai River. This, one of Alaska's most productive salmon streams, is where the big salmon live (the world record, at 98 pounds). As you begin to make contact with Alaska, your only decision will be whether or not to include people in your bound-to-be-fabulous photographs. It'll be late morning when you arrive at the canoe staging area, just in time for lunch by the lake. Drink in the glacial mountain views and clean air as your guides discuss canoe safety, paddling techniques, and your route. Then head out on the water, through small lake banked by fields of blueberries, raspberries, other edible vegetation, and, hopefully, the critters that will be sharing them with you. Eventually, the scenery opens up to the Chugach Mountains, like temples in the distance. Dinner is created from scratch, supplemented with items gathered along the way. (Make your dietary concerns known ahead of time.) If you can tear yourself away from the stories and songs around the campfire, rest up for another day of canoeing and exploring. [B,L,D]

DAY 3 | KENAI/CHUGACH MOUNTAINS: CANOEING, HIKING

Hit the lake on your own, if you like, before the hotcakes hit the griddle. The wildlife are getting up as well. A light hike up into the mountains, through one of the area's largest aspen fields, may turn up moose, bears, loons, beavers, and various others. You�ll know that your destination is at hand when you see a rainbow. Rainbows are common over the Chugach Mountains in the afternoon, and set the scene for snacks and lunch along the way. The ubiquitous Power Bar is complemented by a hodgepodge of smoked salmon, cheese and crackers, dried fruit, and trail mix. You are hiking to your next campsite, but the pristine lakes and streams along the way will slow up your progress--definitely not a bad thing. As late afternoon eases into dusk, we'll hit the water for our evening canoe tour. The amazing light makes for even better photos than by day. Set up camp nearby and settle in for the �nightlife� around the campfire. [B,L,D]

DAY 4 | IN KENAI: CANOEING, HIKING

Waking up so early has never been so pleasant. Canoe some of the surrounding inlets and lakes near the campsite. Or, hike the well-worn trails in the park. You can even sleep in, if the aroma of blueberry pancakes and warm maple syrup doesn't pull you out of your tent. Soon it will be time to pack up. There is a one-way loop through the area and the group will head back to the Seward area via the opposite route for new views. It'll take about two hours to get to the shores of Kenai Lake, where comfortable cabins with �in-house� facilities await us. The free afternoon and evening open you up to more canoeing, or hiking, or simply strolling the lake. [B,L,D]

DAY 5 | GO SEWARD

By the time mid-morning rolls around, you�ll probably have already taken a jog, a stroll, and canoed on the lake. It�s a continental breakfast today in one of the cabins. Then head to Seward, the scenic seaport town on Resurrection Bay known as the gateway to the Kenai fjords. First stop, the Alaska Sea Life Center, constructed with funds recovered from the Exxon Valdez spill in the early 1990s. The center, affiliated with the University of Alaska-Fairbanks, conducts research on the recovery and rehabilitation of marine animals affected by the oil spill. We'll have lunch and dinner in town. Don�t let this small town of 4,000 residents fool you, there are shops and art galleries and harbor views to die for. Seward is shadowed by the 3,022-foot Mt. Marathon; the snow-lined mountain is a breathtaking sight in the evening. Then, it�s back to Kenai Lake for one last chance to canoe or take an evening hike. [B,D]

DAY 6 | KENAI FJORDS/PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND: CRUISING

Move out early for breakfast in town, then board the Aghileen, our 35-foot vessel for cruising the Bay and the Kenai Fjords. Spend the day in awe of these fortresses of ice. The mile-deep fjords are home to an array of marine life: birds, otters, sea lions, and whales. (Lunch will be served on board, as well as hot drinks and snacks.) When the boat swings to Resurrection Bay, the historical importance of the area takes center stage. The ruins of defense post gun batteries are still there over 50 years after World War II. The boat eases east to Prince William Sound with its glacial inlets, passing through the Gulf of Alaska. There is nothing but deep ocean as far as the eye can see. The coastline is stunning, with steep cliffs, waterfalls, and mountain goats along the peaks. Keep your eyes peeled for black bears along the shore and Orca whales and porpoises en route to Puget Bay. Here, we go ashore for dinner at a private cabin, and to warm up. You have the option of sleeping in the cabin or on the boat; both have their charms. Snuggle up for a beach campfire to cap the evening off. [B,L,D]

DAY 7 | KENAI FJORDS/PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND: FISHING

After breakfast in the cabin, hike all along the shore, striving for the perfect photo. Waterfalls and glaciers are everywhere. Spotting wildlife will be easy--getting just the right shot of it a bit tougher. The afternoon is taken up with beachcombing and another tour on the boat. Now is a chance to cast your rod to catch dinner! The guide will clue you into the coastal geology and wildlife secrets. A visit to a tidal pool will allow us to witness a stream red with spawning salmon, and bear (grizzly, most likely). Bear spotting is easy here: just watch as they come for dinner. Then enjoy your own fresh catch of the day with a beach cookout. And you thought you were fishing for fun. [B,L,D]

DAY 8 | PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND/WHITTIER: CRUISING

Board the Aighleen after your early morning stroll for more cruising on the inside passages of Prince William Sound, stopping at the massive tidewater glaciers and a fish hatchery along the way. Your guides know this land in and out, and will offer an overview of the Exxon Valdez oil spill and its effects, plus a lesson in chart reading and marine navigation. The boat will pass through North America�s longest tunnel, under a mountain, and see the most visited location in the area, Portage Lake and Glacier. The sheltered waters of Prince William Sound, called "the pond" by locals, are banked by mountains rising to more than 6,000 feet. We'll stop in the historic military town of Whittier before dinner at a local restaurant. Your final night is in a hotel nearby. [B,L,D]

DAY 9 | BACK IN ANCHORAGE, THE STAR OF THE NORTH

It�s back in the big city again. Wake up early for your last day in Alaska. Breakfast is in the hotel; afterwards there is time to revisit the city spots missed on your first pass. Visit the Natural History Museum, or the Alaska Native Heritage Center, popular museums, or pick up final souvenirs. In the afternoon, it�s back to the hotel to gather all your things then transfer to the airport for the flight home. [B]